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Thailand: ThaiBev launches Thailand’s first Scotch whisky
Beverage giant ThaiBev is embarking on an ambitious venture to create Thailand’s first premium single malt whisky that’s internationally recognised, and after over half a decade of hard work, the elixir of life is now available in three expressions, Khaosod English reported on December 28.
In mid-December, a number of selected guests, and members of the press, were invited to sample the three expressions of PRAKAAN single malt whisky paired with food at The House on Sathorn for a memorable evening.
Mr Prapakon Thongtheppairot, Chief Spirits Product Group of Thai Beverage Public Company Limited (ThaiBev), explained to the forty-or-so guests that PRAKAAN single malt, distilled with local spring water in Kamphaeng Phet province is about provenance, passion, and pride.
The Western Forest Complex, which includes the province of Kamphaeng Phet, sits near the distillery. It is considered the largest remaining forest track in mainland Southeast Asia and covers an area of 18,000 square kilometres. (for comparison, the island of Phuket is 543 square kilometres, while Singapore is 750 square kilometres, and Bangkok 1,569 square kilometres).
This is where PRAKAAN (which means a fort, alluding to the fortification of the ancient city and reflected in the red-brick walls of its distillery, derived its name from.)
Prapakon also spoke about pride, the pride that Thailand finally has its own locally-distilled premium single malt whisky.
PRAKAAN is truly an ambitious project because its goal is to sell Thai-made premium single malt whiskies that they and Thais can be proud of.
It follows Asian trail blazers and success stories like Japan’s now over-priced Nikka and Yamazaki single malt whiskies, and Taiwan’s award-winning Kavalan distillery, whom I had the intoxicated pleasure of visiting the distillery over a decade ago upon the invitation of the Taiwanese Foreign Ministry, and was duly impressed.
So how do the three expressions of Prakaan single malt whisky meet my expectations?
Let’s start with the cheapest, PRAKAAN Select Cask, which is still not cheap at all at 2,250 baht for a 70 cl bottle. (Please note that this story cannot show an image of the spirits in their bottles due to the restrictions under Thai laws which were aimed at discouraging alcoholism.)
PRAKAAN Select Cask is aged in ex-bourbon oak casks and was described by the distillery as “the epitome of our house style”. The distillery says “it is rich and smooth with tropical fruit, honey, vanilla, and hints of lemon peel.”
While I find it drinkable, select cask Prakaan is not my glass of single malt. The notes is not as flowery as I had expected for the price and it has a rather short finish despite its acceptable taste.
If you want to enjoy PRAKAAN premium Thai single malt whiskies, go for their more expensive double cask or peated malt.
This I think is partly due to the fact that PRAKAAN is, after all, still a new distillery and none of its three expressions has an age statement. A female Prakaan executive told me the minimum age is 3 years and above, although the maturation process differs from that of Scotland, or even Japan, due to the hot and humid climate in Thailand. I remember reading about one brand of Indian single malt whisky and an argument that maturing them in India for a year is roughly equivalent to three years in Scotland due to the different climate.
Brand Ambassador Warathep Chandeeraj, who is also their international sales manager, said the closest style to PRAKAAN is highland single malts in Scotland. He told me PRAKAAN distillery is now well over half a decade old.
Given its price, PRAKAAN Select Cask will have to compete with the likes of Glenmorangie’s The Original (aged 10 years in Bourbon cask, and a satisfying drink at 2,249 baht for a 70 cl bottle in a local liquor store in Bangkok, and also served at receptions at the British Residence in Bangkok) which is an entry-level highland single malt, thus the competition is indeed severe.
PRAKAAN double cask, matured in ex-bourbon and ex-sherry oak casks, (2,850 baht, and the priciest among the three expressions) is clearly a more complex and satisfying drink. It’s something the Thai embassies abroad can, or even should, stock some to serve its foreign guests on special occasions. I detected some spices and fruits in the notes and it is a satisfying wee dram. (Each expression at the dinner table that evening was served two ways: on a tulip tasting glass, and on a rock.)
Finally, this is something I can enjoy although I believe 10 years from now, a longer maturation period will do wonders and that’s something ThaiBev can’t buy outright.
BTW, PRAKAAN described its double cask single malt as full-bodied with “long-lasting complexity with multiple layers of spicy, raisin, and chocolate in a perfect balance”.
Let me put it briefly and bluntly, PRAKAAN double cask is the most complex of the three expressions, although like the rest, it contains no age statement.
The third and last expression, PRAKAAN peated malt (2,500 baht), is highly recommended for those into peaty, or smoky whisky. I would say that personally this is the most enjoyable of the three partly because the imported peat from Islay, combined with Scottish barley, ensured that the relative harshness from the relatively short maturation years is not an issue when it’s overpowered by peat.
“Deep and intense smokiness,” was how it was described by the distillery, and “overlaid by vanilla, honey, and sweet long-lasting finish.”
In the end, all three, particularly the two more expensive expressions, are worth trying, even savouring. They are the pride of one of Thailand’s largest conglomerates, which made a fortune selling beer (it’s Chang beer, BTW) and now they want to be noticed and take pride in making premium single malt whisky in Thailand that Thais can be proud of as well. I can’t wait to see how Prakaan distillery will mature in, say 10 years from now, although I am in no rush to see another decade pass within the blink of an eye.
During the course of our dinner and whisky drinking, Mr Prapakon said when he was in charge of Thailand’s premium rum (Phraya Rum) some years ago, he spent two years drinking all of the best rum from around the world. ThaiBev now relies on him, and his team, to make sure Prakaan will sooner than later be recognised and appreciated, not just in Thailand, but abroad.
Înapoi
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